admin The fall 2020 Milan men’s calendar looks particularly busy this season, thanks to the return of Gucci and Prada and some exciting newcomers like A-Cold-Wall.
Gucci was without a doubt one of the biggest losses to the menswear calendar when the company announced in 2016 it would start holding coed shows. But now the brand is back, and it will close out the men’s shows on the final day of the Milan schedule. (Alessandro Michele’s debut show for Gucci was the Fall 2015 men’s collection, which reportedly was designed at the last minute and instantly signaled a new era for the luxury brand.)
Meanwhile, Milan is seeing the return of other brands like Prada, who skipped the schedule last season to show in Shanghai, and Ferragamo and MSGM, who both staged their last men’s shows at Pitti Uomo. And Dsquared2 plans to show their 25th anniversary show as well as a giant afterparty.
Versace and Celine, two of the biggest draws on the menswear calendar, are both sitting out the shows this season, opting instead for a coed format during the women’s fashion weeks this February in Milan and Paris, respectively.
London is known for cultivating home-grown talent, whether it’s through young designer incubators or big splashy awards and funding. Three of the city’s rising names are coming off a milestone 2019, and people will be paying close attention this season: Bethany Williams was recently honoured with the Fashion Award for British Emerging Talent in Menswear, while Grace Wales Bonner and Samuel Ross of A-COLD-WALL* both won the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund, respectively. Ross will be moving his show Milan this season, though he will still hold a special installation in London.
Meanwhile, Brioni will be celebrating its 75th year at Pitti with a special event curated by fashion historian Olivier Saillard that will show the brand’s fall collection through the lens of its history.
Paris continues to be the most important stop on the menswear calendar, with fashion giants like Dior Men under Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton among the biggest draws again this season. Some of the returning names are Simon Port Jacquemus, who we have not seen in action since his 10th anniversary runway show in the lavender fields of southern France in June, and Clare Waight Keller, who showed in Florence last season. Other new names joining the Paris menswear calendar this season are Craig Green, who usually shows in London; LA-based label Rhude; and Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, the creative directors of Nina Ricci who will present their first collection for their menswear brand Botter on the official schedule.
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